First, it's important you know that I am making these videos and writing this blog because I want to share what I have learned, through trial and error, with you! I had no idea what I was doing as a first-time homeowner. My goal was to inexpensively remodel my home and do all of the work myself, but I had to watch so many videos and do so much research to learn how to do all of this. I want to make that process a little easier for others by putting all of the information, in layman's terms, in one place. So, here you go!
This is what the back patio looked like when we moved in. The previous owners created a 12x20 patio area by adding pea gravel around the perimeter of the existing slab. I love sitting on a patio and enjoying the outdoors, and this wasn't quite the relaxing spot I had pictured. It needed a serious makeover, and I didn't have the funds to hire someone to build a deck or to make a bigger slab. I thought adding large concrete pavers around the perimeter would be the least expensive, longest-lasting and modern-looking way to increase square footage. One day, I was talking to a friend of mine who owns a landscaping company, and he said, "you're handy, why don't you just make your own concrete and do pavers?" HMMMMMM...interesting. I will say that the thought of working with concrete was intimidating, but I took to the internet and learned everything I could about the process, and here we are!
The prep work. Warning: there's math. When creating your design, there are a couple of factors you want to consider: Aesthetics and integrity. It's aesthetically more pleasing to either have a paver that is perfectly square or a rectangle where the sides are 2:1. For instance, my rectangular pavers are 16.5" X 33" and my large square pavers are 52" X 52". I was careful to keep the large pavers under 6ft, because I didn't feel like messing with cattle panel. It’s not necessary to lay rebar or cattle panel in the bottom of the paver frames before pouring the concrete in this situation, because they are going to be 3 ½ inches thick and less than 6 ft. wide. These should last for years, unless you plan on driving a car over them. 😊
After finishing my design, I realized it wasn't cost effective for me to use the bags of Quickcrete, because I would probably need like 6 bags for each of the small pavers. I was going to have to make my concrete from scratch! By doing it this way, I am going to make pavers that are stronger and that will last longer as well, so it makes sense.
Next, figure out the amount of supplies you will need for your project.
Concrete = Sand + Aggregate + Cement + Water
My local landscaping supply company has a "concrete mix" that they have conveniently put together for their customers. It's just a blend of sand and aggregate (pebbles and rock). The concrete formula is 3:1, so you will need 3 of the concrete mix to 1 cement.
A note on cement: White Portland Cement (this is what I used) is primarily used to enhance the aesthetic look and feel of a structure, such as ornamental decorations and flooring. Grey cement is used purely for construction purposes. So, white cement is what you will need here, but it's also a little pricier. You can't buy this in bulk like the concrete mix, but your landscape supply company can figure out how many bags you will need for each cubic yard. I needed 1 cubic yard of cement, so they delivered 29 bags on a pallet for me!
All of your supplies need to be ordered in cubic yards. This is how you figure that out:
Number of Cubic Yards = Length (in feet) Width (in feet) Depth (in feet) ÷ 27
Simply multiply the three dimensions together to find the number of cubic feet, then divide by 27 to find the number of cubic yards.
I recommend you get your supplies delivered in these Super Sacks. This project is going to take awhile, so you don't want a giant mound of dirt and rock sitting on your driveway! Plus, they will give you a little money back when you return the Super Sacks after you are done with them. YAY!
Next, make the frames for your pavers out of 2X4s into the size that your design requires. I used kiln dried wood that was NOT pressure treated, so I could get the straightest boards possible. Sometimes pressure treated wood gets a little wonky. Use a set square or triangle on the insides of each angle to make sure that the frames are perfect squares or rectangles. Secure each end with (2) 2 1/2" screws, so they don't move.
I decided to just add on to the current slab over here for what will be a small outdoor kitchen at some point.
**It’s important to note that the new concrete won't bind with the old concrete, so we need to do a little prep work.** First, make a frame for the other 3 sides with 2x4s. Next, you will need to drill holes the size of your rebar into the existing slab. Mine are about 3 inches deep. You will need to use a hammer drill and masonry bits, made for drilling into concrete. Make the holes about equidistant apart, and then tap the rebar into the holes as far as you can with a hammer. Now you can pour the concrete into the frame and rest assured it won't break away from the original slab.
You should be all set! I made my concrete the old-fashioned way with a garden hoe and a tub, but you do have the option of renting a heavy-duty concrete mixer from The Home Depot or another tool rental place. Disclaimer: this is a lot of hard work! Michael helped me out with the big pavers, and had to go to the chiropractor... twice! I made this video so you can see the whole process in motion.
Video directed and edited by: Michael Maly, Above the Radar PR
Now, let the concrete cure fully for about a month before staining or painting it!
I hope you learned a lot, laughed a little, and are inspired to tackle those big, scary projects as well! Stay tuned for the next phase of this patio makeover, which is staining the concrete! I'll also discuss the differences in acid stain vs a water-based glaze-stain. Thanks for reading, and please reach out if you have any questions! Happy home-making!
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